Things to do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine (Copy)

Is the Valle de Guadalupe Open?

Yes, the Valle de Guadalupe is open. Hotels and Restaurants have changed their seating operations and made investments for covid. Many take reservations, so you will want to call ahead.

Things to do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine and Food

Updated 5/2021

In my 10 years living and working in Ensenada as an Expat, I have grown to love escapes to the Valle. I have come to love the Valle de Guadalupe for many things I already love, which don’t tend to be wine and fine dining, so I wanted to offer a few ideas to diversify your options.

Craft, Artesanal Beer. Yes, Ensenada has a hoping microbrew scene and you can find some in the Valle de Guadalupe. Check out Wendlant’s brewery and tasting room for a sunset beer. It is on the ocean just at the end of the D3 highway that goes through the Valle.

Kombucha in Valle De Guadalupe: My friend Todd opened a cool little place with fresh Kambucha and some tasty meats in San Antonio de las Minas, on the right straight back from the stoplight.

One of my coolest massage clients, Kino has Big Mountain Kombucha. The band leader with a reggae image lives a wild and healthy life.

Bike Ride:

Several of the resorts have bike ride options: Hotel Boutique and La Tierra have those options, allowing you to use their bikes to pedal around on the dirt roads and visit local wineries. It’s fun. As for biking on the roads, I don’t recommend it. Although the highway is well paved, and the shoulder is large in some areas, traffic is not accustomed to respecting bikes. Usually, you only see road bikers with a lead and follow vehicle, which seems like a lot of hassle to coordinate for me. And on the weekend the one-lane roads get backed up when biking groups are riding.

Mountain biking or gavel biking is AWESOME in the Ensenada area. Bring your own gear.

Zipline:

Cuatros cuatros resort has Desert Nest Zipline. They are not quite as big and awesome as Las Canadas 40min south of Ensenada but are much closer.

Hot Air Balloon Ride:

Valle is beautiful, why not get a new perspective.

Animal Life for the Kid in You

Ranch life in Valle de Guadalupe has a couple of options for animal viewing or petting.

The Valle features a kids zoo ‘Zoologico Parque del Niño’. It’s on the Porvenir side of the Valle.

And many other places have random ranch animals. My favorite is Casa Vieja, with goats that love to be rubbed, and ostriches.

And you may see road runners on the unpaved roads.

Hike to Waterfall/ hot springs

Still getting info for closer options. El Salto, 20 min north on road to La Mision is an interesting 30min walk hike to along canyon floor to rocky gorge, with an option for a steep uphill section of the hike. Camping options are available too.

Cheese tasting in Valle de Guadalupe

The cheese room in San Antonio Las Minas has a sampling of cheeses, jams, and such. Fun little stop and cheese wine combos are legendary to melt the fat of cheese with the acidity of the wine. Check out fresh apple pie in the cafe a couple of stores down.

Wine museum:

Valle de Guadalupe has a wine museum that is new and well run. It has great displays on the history of the region and winemaking. However, they have restricted hours during covid.

Get your Art on

Tres Mujeres has a great art cave. The owner Yvette is a ceramic artist.

My friend Jo Ann Knox runs a nice art collectivo in the rustic and authentic Casa Vieja. Several artists are on display/ for sale with a couple of food options. Find them by navigating to Cava VinTango near San Antonio Las Minas.

The adobe-style of the house and sprawling restaurant, rusty tractor, is a treat to meander around.

Live music in the Valle de Guadalupe is available, and you will have to search and call ahead. Check out Brent at JazzLite, he also runs the coffee cart at the highway exit for Maglen Guru Resort. Valle Girl Wines has a Sunday afternoon outdoor concert. Ochentos Pizza has Saturday night bands and is actually one of my favorite spots.

For hip electronic music, check out Casa Frida’s DJ sets and Agua de Vid. Saturday nights my buddy and Las Vegas-based DJ Arron Feld has been playing around the Valle this spring. Check his facebook for when he is playing.

Yoga and Pilates

Yes, Luna de Sol has some yoga offerings at Hotel Boutique. Michelle is a gentle and authentic soul. They are still in construction on the wellness center.

For private yoga classes in your rental, Ensenada Tours and Excursions can arrange a teacher, about $8-10 USD a person.

Spa Experiences in Valle

Most of the physical Spas are closed for Covid. However, there are mobile massage options that allow you to stay in your amazing rental and request a massage and facial at your place. And take the best nap ever after, without driving. Valle Mobile Spa offers packages for couples and groups from $99usd a person in Valle.

ATV Tours in Valle de Gudalupe

El Cielo has run some ATV Tours, however, it is unclear if nonguests can access them.

Horseback riding:

Many places have horseback riding, Hotel Boutique has good options. For a private guide, Contact Rosabella in Valle de Guadalupe, Marty Harriman in La Mision, or Chrystal B at Desert Trails south of Ensenada near La Bufadora.

The Valle runs on Baja Time, so for a larger, group with a budget, you may want to use a travel concierge

Fun Things to do in Ensenada While on Cruise Shore Day (Copy)

A Local’s Tips On Things to do In Ensenada Downtown near Cruiseport

Looking for Quirky things to do in Ensenada while on a cruise or just hanging around downtown? Here are 8 almost free fun ideas. You could always do Excursions, but try these ideas near cruise port and budget-oriented. If you do 1-5 in order, it’s a walkable journey from cruise port where carnival and others dock.

1) Capone’s Hideout 2) Funky Furniture 3) Fresh Churro 4) Decorate Ensenada with US Dollar Bill 5) Get Mexifornia DL 6) Mediation Gardens 7) Hipster Collection of shops 8) Art Museum

Please let me know if any of this info needs updating - things are always changing here and I hope to give accurate, updated info so others can enjoy things to do here in Ensenada.

Riviera Cultural Center by Al Capone and Birthplace of Maragrita!?

1) Explore Riviera Cultural Center. Built by Al Capone as a casino, this building and grounds has great architecture, mini museum and well kept public gardens. Also hidden Bar Andaluz inside that claims to have invented the Margarita?? . . . .and check out that cool wall mural and public green gardens are best in town. To get there, it’s right off the cruise ship, keep walking straight and huge white building. It is free to walk around, and the museum has a small fee.

As a bonus on Sundays afternoons at 4pm (Carnival Imagination is in), there is group dancing by Golden Agers - 3pm and after they dance to latin and a few american oldies. Everyone dance with anyone who asks, so if you are a dancer and would like go move a bit it’s a fun option. I love it because I get to dance and it is a day even, it doesn’t kill my sleep schedule.

Funky Mexican Style Art Furniture

2) Funky design and art at Fausto Polanco Furniture store. This designer-art-furniture place has some cool stuff to browse from the Mexican style. Some of it makes me laugh, some of it inspires new home ideas. On the quiet end of La Primera on corner just over the river/bridge. Redecorating is always fun to get new ideas for your living space.

This shop has a few other locations in Rosarito and around mexico.

Now That’s a Churro!

3) Eat fresh Churro. Churros are the Mexican equivalent of Krispy Creme. When they are fresh - Amazing crispy sweetness for your mouth. I love churro shop on La Primera next to Rey del Sol. It’s literally a tiny window sandwiched between bigger businesses.

As an alternative, next to Roma pharmacy on Three Head’s Park, there is a Churro guy that is good too. You should see the horse carriages there.

Leave your mark on Ensenada - Post $1 Bill.

4) Post dollar bill in Restaurante Corralito with a message. You pick the message! Could be a wish or a grievance. So it will cost you a $1 or $2. But then you can come back next year and check on the status. It’s kinda like leaving your mark, but not in a tree carving. And you are in Mexico, so defacing government property of $1 is not punishable by Uncle Sam.

El Corralito has a fun atmosphere and pretty good with some mexcian dishes and some standard plates as well.

Mexifornia Driver’s License!

5) Get a Mexifornia Driver’s Liscense. What better way to confuse your pals than with a weird souvenir from Ensenada. Opps, again not entirely free. Price is $10 and takes Ten Minutes inside Rudy’s Curios, Across from McDonalds on La Primera. Fireworks available too . . .

This place - Rudy’s Curios - is a non descript souvenir place. There are about 10 of theses places along the street selling about the same inventory of oddities, souvenirs, and such. The kind of stuff that is good for gifts for my 5 year old neices that are soo excited to get a gift, and it can be forgotten or destroyed in 5 months.

I will post my Shopping ideas here:

Keiki Statue and Ecological Park for city views

6) Walk/Hike up to Keiki ecological Park offers great views of the city, a botanical garden and statue of Princess Tara, a Buddhist sculpture gifted from Nepal in 80s. You will have to walk here through safe neighborhoods. It is 13 blocks back from Papas and Beer end of La Primera. You could cab it too and spend a few pesos. It is near best massage studio in Ensenada (mine) and best turkish coffee as well at Cocina Azzi.

The gardens have a variety of labelled plants that are endimic to our semi arid environment. Currently on Sundays once a month, they host a local organic farmers/ craft market. It’s worth a visit if you are tired of the hubub of La Primera.

If you take the walk, you will also pass a nice park; Parque Revolucion on Sexta and Obregon. It’s an urban park with huge shade trees, some statues, playground, and authentic local street food - burritos, tortas, random sweets and coffee. On Sundays it’s pretty lively with locals with their kids. Summer time has public dancing occasionally.

7) Hipster Collection of Food and Lifestyle: Villa Mexicana is a revitalized collection of hip shops just behind La Primera. As a cruiser, the entrance is off the beaten path, but’s is a nice slice of local life compared to La Primera. I recommend it.

You will find cool little bakeries, cigar and wine shops, ceviche places, juice bar, several restaurants, and all in an nice architectural area built for outdoor walking. I like roaming the alley ways seeing whats open and new. The area is not new so it has a classic feel, but many of shops are new so I like it. Since it is not built for toursim like La Primera, the people are chillax and things are quieter. Yes, it is 100% safe.

The new places are opened with style, modern marketing and quality. That is to say, it’s not the arguabley more authentic, dusty local panaderia built 35 years ago.

To get there for this coolish thing to do, it is bordered on four sides by Riveroll, Alvarado, La Primera, and Segundo. You can’t enter from Primera since there are solid shops, and you can’t drive in. Here is are walking directions from cruiseport

I will be posting Things to do with Artsy, Kids, Walking . .. . . and will link when those are written;)

8) CE Arte State Museum I always appreciate a little extra art in my life, especially when it’s free. I actually bought my a piece from the Carnival Art Gallery during my curise, but mostly because the hype and salesmanship overtook me, lol. For a more relaxed art museum, take 2 block walk from the boat to CE Arte. It’s free with two large exhibition rooms, rotating exhibits. It has a nice cafe with outdoor seating and bookstore, and an outdoor statue in the center of huge plaza. There is a performance space and different activities, but usually in evening.

Check Facebook here for events and location:

Jesse Atkinson is an Expat from Wisconsin, and has lived in Ensenada since 2011, building life Ensenada Massage and raising his Dog, Tina.

Ensenada Tours and Shore Excursion Recommendations (Copy)

This is my two pesos of advice on Ensenada Tours and Shore Excursions

As an ex-pat massage therapist living and working here for 9 years, listening to cruisers chat about tours and cruising myself (Carnival Imagination 4 day Dec 2018!!), I have seen all sides of the Tours business in Ensenada. I frequently take adventures on my own and with my friends that visit by land. And I even took a cruise to Ensenada - yeah I know, who cruises to their own home town:)

Shore excursions are readily available on the boat, but generally large buses. When I cruised the 4-day cruise in Dec 2018, I was ready to get away from the crowd. A private excursion is a good option, especially if you want to get several things in, or want the flexibility to stop for tacos/tequila/ change your mind depending on how your other half/kids feel.

Whether you drive into town or are on the ship, you could make an inexpensive day of just wandering around for a few hours. The Malecon is nice for a walk, the 3 heads park “Tres Cabezas'“, then a quiet coffee, or taco and beer on the first street (La Primera), and meander through Riviera Cultural Center, CEArte museums. For tours, Jump below; I recommend a half-day tour and a massage before getting back on board.

La Primera (First Street): Just a block from the Harbor, this 5 block stretch is an area of Ensenada where the shops and vendors have been built up over the years for day tourism from the Carnival ships. At night it is a different scene. It’s a bit fun, a bit of a free for all of the stuff for sale and guys offering tacos and beer and other items you might want to sell. Plenty of pharmacies, taverns, shopping, coffee shops. It’s a safe, nice stroll close to the ship, and entertaining. Skipworthy if you are more annoyed than entertained by curiosities for sale, cheap beers, and crowds. And after squeaky clean Catalina, you may notice we don’t sweep the streets, or destroy old buildings as quickly. You will encounter sidewalk vendors offering tacos, tequila, tours, excursions, and happy ending massage.

Casa Ramirez: They have high-quality stuff from all over Mexico - a huge country with a diverse culture. Visit and check out the handmade goods, and ask questions of the knowledgeable staff. Street items are fun, usually much lower quality and imported often.

Best Coffee and Salads: Hogaza Hogaza: German-style bakery with fresh-squeezed orange juice, Keifer, amazing salads, and great coffee. Run by a Canadian scientist, Rodger. He’s a buddy;)

Tequila Room for tasting is a cornerstone of La Primera street. Angel speaks perfect English and gives great education on the amazing tequila culture of Mexico. Tastings are free and, after you are tipsy, he will offer you a bottle of high quality sipping tequila to buy. Perhaps a go is a good souvenir you can pack away as a memory. Don’t open it to avoid Carnival complications.

Tacos (both fish, shrimp, and steak) are great pretty much anywhere. La Guerrenense is a pretty renowned local tostada/ceviche spot.  For fried fish taco, I love the crunch at California Taco Bar. After massage or excursions, I drop off many folks here.

Cultural Highlights: At the end of First Street, and across the street from the cruise port, you will find La Riviera, a cultural center and best gardens and architecture, supposedly built by Al Capone as a casino originally. The bar inside invented the margarita purportedly. But there are several claims on that invention. Across the street, you will see CEARTE, our free modern art museum. Small museum with rotating exhibits, I like it. The State Tourist office is in front of CEARTE with info, but not much help for day of planning.

Ensenada Tours and Shore Excursions:

These excursions and tours linked here should give you more personal service than larger tour providers I have seen (cruise websites) and get you back on the boat on time. The cruise ship would like you to book with them, so they warn you about safety and getting on the boat to play on your fears. Walking off the ship you can book find some tours with about 20% discount to ship prices, and you may have to deal with cross-culture communication and stressful negotiations. You will probably get a more service rather than a bus. Some are taxi tours are good, some are so so.

ATV Ensenada:

Where can you ride ATV’s on-street and ocean anymore? Not in California for sure. I grew up with three-wheelers before they were outlawed. Riding is great, and should be done safely.

ATV’s that are rented in the street are kind of a free for all. You can make up your own route. Although that sounds great, riding in traffic on streets is not so great. I recommend excursions where you get a guide and ride in area that is off street and designated. There are a few near the zip lines and in the Wine Valley.

If you decide for the street ride, be responsible in traffic and of natural areas.

Zipline Tour:

Las Canadas is fun outdoor park. Zipline excursion is the best I have done here in Ensenada, and safer than Guatemala. Let’s face it, soo many rules in US that the adrenaline as been taken out of some adventure. These bridges and zips are killer fun. My friend Arturo gives a good tour and transportation there. I can refer you to him.

There are several Zip Line options, Las Canadas is the biggest and easiest to access. They have a combination of zipline and suspension bridges. Desert’s Nest has some great zip lines near Valle de Guadalupe. Further north near Las Gaviotas is an option, but I actually have never heard of anyone going there.

Zipline Suspension Bridges are awesome!

Ensenada Massage: How about a day spa excursion with private pick up/drop off, great facilities, pricing at $99 a couple in the afternoon compared to about $250 a couple on the ship spa. Fit a massage in before or after your other tours. Yes, I own the place and ensure quality and amazing service. Our #1 TripAdvisor and Yelp, and Google Ratings speak for themselves. My team rocks;) We started offering groups of 5 massage for family and girlfriend parties, and kids get a discount now too.

Wine Tour Excursion in Valle de Guadalupe:

It’s awesome and much younger than Napa and Sonoma the energy of the outdoors, great food, investment, interesting architecture, and eco friendly is remarkable. Over that last decade, the area has grown to world destinations for food and wine. Sweet views, delicious food, and wine to lighten your mood….. Can you do it in an excursion day? Heck yeah, schedule a morning pick-up private tour, lunch, guide. You can find a trained wine specialist like Valley Girl Wine Tours, or take a more budget route with the packaged tour.

I prefer the small tour approach using a private excursion tour for flexibility.

Scuba/snorkel/kayak: I have scubaed here and had great experiences in kelp forests. Keep in mind waters are pretty cold, and visibility is limited since we get good waves from the pacific. Diego at Baja Blue Diver and Dale have well-run operations. If your cruise passes through Catalina, consider diving/scuba there with Ron Moore, a legend in the dive community. Kayaking with is my preferred way to see the La Bufadora and the amazing cove there.

Horseback Riding Excursion:

Our guests have had great experiences with Chrystal’s Desert Trails ocean view rides on the beach. Some of the other horse care and cleanliness practices on other tours may be different from US standards, (this is partly why I recommend Chrystal). For rides in Valle de Guadalupe, $45 a person, I can connect you with Rosabella.

We actually offer a massage and horse ride package too so you can easily get them both in and logistics are easy between horse ride and our massage studio.

Horseback Riding On The Beach

Blowhole and Bufadora Excursion

La Bufadora is a natural blowhole geyser on the end of the geographic bay that protects Ensenada city. Cool scenery on the way out there and the waves spouting up is fun by the ocean. To get from parking to blowhole, you will pass through an exciting barrage of souvenir vendors selling entertaining junk in a Mexican carnival-like style. I like to call it the gauntlet. If you can get through without a free sample of pina colada or candied nuts, or weird, inappropriate coffee mug or shirt, you win!

Transportation: Uber or private driver and tour guide, white car street taxis are a pain here.

Dune Buggy Excursion: My friend Dusty from the Carnival Imagination Facebook group says it’s overrated. The vehicles have a limitation on the throttle so you can’t really let loss and go fast. Having said that, the outskirts of Ensenada are beautiful and very different from downtown and La Primera.

Adult Beverages: Since Alcohol is a bit pricey on the ship and you won’t be driving, you may want to consider some drinks while onshore. Craft Beer: Lucky Irish 4 is a hot new addition to Ensenada Craft Beer Scene. Tons of craft beers on the killer Ocean Patio. 1 pm opens Cantina: A tavern rooted in Mexican heritage with consistent mariachi bands, Hussong’s stands alone as an interesting experience. Other places on the La Primera first street just aren’t as interesting. Tuesday and Thursday 2 for 1 beer. Amigos is a good choice for rowdy beers on the street. Interesting Dive Bar: La Cueva de Pirata. Just a block from the cruise port, and totally for locals and musicians after their nightly gigs. So local that I am the only one to leave a google review. . . . . If you want to drink on the street in the sun with US music and a rowdy scene, try Amigos on First Street, near Papas and Beer.

Wine without leaving Centro: Santo Tomas Bodega wines for tasting, lunch place, and collection of cool shops nearby with the best coffee, a vegan bakery, hidden mezcal shop and upstairs joint Alta Baja with cool city views. On 6th and Miramar, it’s a walk from the La Primera first street. Think of it as boutique upper-class shops. Not old school Mexican, and not dusty middle-class shops either.

Cigar: Legit Cubans at Habanos with a semi-cool cigar lounge, Are they legitimate Cubans? I think so for these that are sold in the store - not the guys occasionally up and down the street. Daniel at Habanos across from Villa Marina parking entrance runs his own shop and is my source for an occasional smoke.

Surf Lessons: Why not? Yes, I learned to surf here. Winter waves are plenty for beginners. Water is clean enough. Beach Playa Hermosa works well for beginners with an easy beach break. Guides are fun and equipment (boards and wet suits for cold winter water) new and reasonably priced. For higher-level surfers custom tour on Request. Elsa at Playa Hermosa Surf and Sup has the best operations and Carnival outsource to her. So she is moonlighting direct to clients (Carnival takes a HUGE cut). Ask her about Surf and Massage Package.

Skydive: Safe and fun, skydiving is amazing. Fabricio at Skydive Baja is the man in Ensenada. Yes, they can do pickup and dive during your cruise stop. He was my first roommate in Ensenada, so I can vouch he is adrenaline junkie. And safe enough run the best operation around.

Fun Eats:

da Toni - the best Italian seafood spot in Ensenada. Super authentic, high end of local pricing, and cute.

Planta Baja - great views/good dinner/right next to Baja Brews out in Sauzal.

Boules - great dinner spot. Off the ocean next to nice city park.

Parque Revolucion: It’s a city park for the residents, huge magnolia trees, music on Sundays, guys playing chess, kids on playground, sandwiches for sale.

Ecological park and Buddhist statue with views of city. Keki is Fifteen blocks from the first street and a block for office. I am considering planning out a self-guided walking tour to this and Parque Revolucion as part of hidden cultural side of Ensenada. Great maintained gardens and city views.

The first five cruisers to leave a comment here, I will buy a taco and beer!! Give me a virtual hug by leaving a comment;)

Map of Ensenada Save on your phone if you like to orient yourself:)

Tips in Other Posts

Is Ensenada Safe?

Prescription Medicine: Pharmacy’s here sell lots of stuff at cheaper prices. I have never heard of a problem with quality. What you are sold in pharmacy is the actual product labeled. Taking medication back Rule: . . . Not everything is available without restriction. Many medicines are controlled and the pharmacies are regulated, so no shady practices. You can bargain of course and prices.

For more adventure (or relaxation massage) consider an excursion/tour:

Kayak Excursion to Blowhole

9 Best Tacos in Ensenada Near port

Best Taco Food Stops Near Downtown

A great travel experience should include great food, and by food, I mean tacos! Ensenada has some superb treats of street tacos and sit down dining experiences They are a bit hard to find, so. Massage clients and cruise excursion groups often ask for my local recommendations. Each recommendation below has links so you can handily track them down and plot your own food quest.

1) Best Fish Taco in Ensenada on Open Flame

Yiyo’s taco cart food stand has awesome fish tacos. It’s a cool place on Beachfront Playa Hermosa, so you can sit in front of the beach and chow down, and take a stroll before or after. Each day he sets up a taco marisco stand. But the fish is not deep-fried, it is on steel grill with open flame. Fish is tender and ceviches are fresh. Awesomely, the firewood is plywood cut-outs of guitars, probably harvested from the local Fender factory. It’s a well-run food stand, so very clean and several employees there. He is a cool guy, almost always there and has been there since I started visiting 8 years ago, and he keeps the local parking lot semi-clean for local surfers.

The shrimp cocktails are great too, but not unique like his open flame fish taco.

It is walkable from Cruiseport if you are up for 1/2 mile on street and 1/4 mile on the beach. The first 1/2 mile is on the sidewalk in front of marine base and cement factory, then you can walk along the beach. Or just uber there.

2) Best Authentic Mexican: Portrero Viejo

For travelers wanting Mexican food, this is great option, just off La Primera in trending Villa Mexican. It is tucked away so not so much traffic and the decor and menu still caters to locals. Prices are great.

I wouldn’t expect a polished tourist experience, but food and atmosphere is a nice change. Gorditas, birria, many classic Mexcian dishes made with care.

And there is a mariscos place next door if you need that in your diet.

3) Healthy Vegetarian: Falafel Comida Israeli

Killer fresh, simple, healthy, lovely flavors. Outdoorish seating and low prices. On Costero Walkable for cruisers and it’s on my way home from Playa Hermosa, so it’s my go to post-beach/swim/surf spot.

Next door is a cool local artist and some other local shops, including the money exchange place closest to the boat. I will post more vegetarian/ vegan options soon.

Legit Israel Falafel Just Off Ship

4) Margaritas at Bar Andaluz:

Margarita Margarita. Say it 5 times fast. The clean, gardens and grounds of Riveria make this place memorable, fireplace in the corner, mexican tile work make a drink and wandering conversation a pleasant experience. And you can get your selfie at the birthplace of the margarita - do I believe it? I like this place with old school Mexican drinks and a fireplace for the atmosphere. Tucked inside the Riviera, it is very close to the cruise port, so easy to start/end walking journey here. The public gardens are nicely maintained there is a small museum in the Rivera cultural center.

Birthplace of Margarita? Maybe . . . .

5) Muelle 3 on Harbor

Ensenada is known for the freshness of the seafood. For sit down sea food, I gotta go with Mulle 3 for it’s high quality and prime location on the waterfront. The walk to arrive is nice, sunset on a warm day, and a new art installation there where the small fishing boats depart. There is often a wait, but there is plenty to see and people watching is great.

6) Churros:

As I mentioned in my quirky cheap things here, Fresh churros are better - much better - than fresh Krispy Kreme. Get you sugar rush on! Try them stuffed with cajeta - carmel.

7) Best Meat Tacos: El Paisa

on 10th and 20 de Noviembre is my local taco hang out and off la Primera, but worth it. I think the thick corn tortillas are the secret to it’s deliciousness. Always full. Tuesday’s closed. Handy ice cream joint next door for when you want local sweet. When I relax my healthy plant-based food habit, I stop here for a meat bing. I think the secret is the corn tortillas, hand made.

Also check out the speed of the taco assembly operation. The carne asada guy is amazing with speed and assembly of tacos. The ladies in the back assemble other elements like onions, radishes, and tortas. Tacos are about a $1 each!

Tacos El Paisano is Local favorite

8) Best Crispy Fish tacos

with a cool atmosphere of fun people and sidewalk seating available. Bullo’s Place California Bar Fish B Taco on Primera easy option. It’s got a tourist flair, but it’s well done, great service and clean as a whistle.

Prices are slightly more than El Paisa since it is one first street tourist district. But, with the location, there is no need to wander far. Several beer and taco packages daily to reduce your decision fatigue. My friend has a massage parlor next door, and it’s okay for budget shoppers if you want a quality experience - discover our massages and facials. Reviews on TripAdvisor, Yelp, and Facebook, and Google rank us higher.

Bullos Fish Tacos next to cheap massage

9) Lunch under Magnolia Trees: Huitlacoche Vegan Taco

Enjoy a walk in the park and outdoor dining at Boules with cool ceramic plates made by local artists, an interesting mix of binational people. They have great food and I love the vegetarian options and huitlacoche vegetarian tacos.

The atmosphere is a huge wooden deck with magnolia trees and vines all around. It is located 5 blocks off La Primera, so cruisers don’t stumble in by mistake. This is my favorite place to relax and feel the lively conversation of happy binational people dining. Pleasant music, a variety of interesting international and vegetarian foods like artichoke heart appetizers. The huitlacoche tacos are totally unique and if you have never had moldy corn treat, it is disgusting and tasty at the same time. Try it.

Tues - Sat 2 pm and after, usually. It is a 6 block walk from La Primera, 4 blocks to La Paisa Meat Tacos listed above.

Boules Under Magnolia Trees

It is also dog-friendly, and with outdoor sitting, cigar smoking is welcome. It is locally owned by Javi, who is often there to greet folks. The entrance is a door through a wall on 5th, or through the wine store that is adjacent to it. If you want a bottle of local wine, as a souvenir, they have a good selection.

Bonus: Best Ensenada Tacos Castillo and La Guerrerense

I love La Guerrerense, and it is priced for travelers at about 2x local prices, but the quality and diversity of flavors make it worth it. Anthony Bourdain’s visit made it semi-famous, RIP AB. Tacos Fenix never impressed me that much so I am putting Tacos Castillo on my list. They have a new stand and super hygienic.

Bonus food item: Smoked Tuna or Marlin at Mercado Negro

The Mercado Negro fresh fish market along the harbor has tasty smoked tuna and smoked marlin at about 200mn or 10$ a kilo. I love it because the price is budget-friendly and the flavor is awesome! And since it is already cooked and smoked, it doesn’t go bad in the fridge and travels well in a couple of plastic bags. You will have stinky breath, of course.

Other fresh seafood is fun to look at and great prices. I sometimes love some white wine garlic sauteed mussels. If you buy, I suggest you cook it the same day since freshness standards vary by the day and vendor. There are a bunch of fish taco places there just above the market. They are all clean and won’t cause stomach issues.

Traveler Advice:

Things to do with Kids In Ensenada

How to deal with Gringo Pricing Negotiating Like a Pro

Travel Safety and Transportation in Ensenada

Dollars, Pesos, ATMs in Ensenada?

Jesse is full time resident of Ensenada since 2011 and Baja since 2009. As owner of Ensenada Massage and Valle Mobile Spa, he does massage, and helps travelers enjoy Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe, the gem of the Pacific. Bio here.

Ensenada Travel Safety Updates including Valle de Guadalupe

Update: Saturday 8/13/2022

Ensenada Businesses Closed due to Insecurity

For precaution, the city of Ensenada is essentially closed. Last night one of the cartels announced it would create violence on the streets of Tijuana, Mexicali, and Ensenada until Sunday afternoon.

https://ensenada.net/noticias/nota.php?id=68913

A few vehicles were burnt and the city has announced a stay-at-home recommendation. Most businesses were closed down at 10 pm Friday night.

The streets are quiet today. For precaution, I have closed my businesses Ensenada Massage, Valle Mobile Spa, and Ensenada Excursions, are closed.

Most likely cruise excursions and massages will be canceled tomorrow Sunday as well.

It’s hard to know what is exactly true and what level of danger there is, but I prefer to act with caution. Although narco activity doesn’t usually direct me as an ex-pat business owner, the cartels are powerful, and when there is a power imbalance between cartels, or in negotiation with the government, risk level changes.

05/13/2022

The state department issued a travel warning for Mexico and included state of Baja, not Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe

As you know, the State Department issued a travel alert to reconsider travel to Baja and for Mexicali Valley in Baja Norte government employees are restricted. You can see details below, and Ensenada, is not included in the restrictions.

https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/mexico-travel-advisory.html

At the same time, last weekend local Ensenada paper announced local violent crime is down 53% this year from January to June.  

So, what does this mean for your travel to Baja?

Honestly, I don’t think this kind of information is that helpful guidance on traveling.    Newspaper local data are questionable and government reports accurate, but often months old and the geographic area gets lost.

This last year I have seen no change in safety as an Expat living and working here.  I continue to live peacefully, do my work, pay taxes, and hang out with my dogs on the beach. Since I am not involved in any illicit activity, those players don’t bother me, or other tourists. My biggest travel problem this year has been my car overheating due to a faulty radiator fan switch.

I personally never feel at risk here in for crimes against my body, and I accept the physical things of value may magically disappear if I don’t pay attention. . . . that seems to be the same most places in the world. 

The state department issued a travel advisor for Baja California

Updated 8/10/21:

Are Ensenada beaches Open?

No, currently closed due to a black water spill. They should be open again in two months until the next test. Playa Hermosa is also closed because of construction on new infrastructure.

Southbound border traffic continues without restrictions for crossing or covid testing.

Ensenada continues to experience an upsurge in violence related to drug trafficking. However, this upsurge is from almost no violence two years ago, and I have not it seen affect tourism, local ex-pat life, or Valle de Guadalupe. Ensenada, this does not seem to touch those not involved in bad stuff.

Baja remains in Covid Semafaro Amarillo, Yellow light. See current government updates here:

Update: 7/24/21: Vendimia is still being held. Returning from my birthday trip to Sedona, AZ, I see that there are more masks and precautions in Ensenada compared to Sedona.

Update: 6/24/21: The vaccine has been rolled out for the age groups down to 20s now. The free, voluntary offering was available beginning with the older population and has now reached the 20’s. Most workers are now vaccinated. Our Spa team is 100% vaccinated. I haven’t seen statistics on what percent of locals received, but I would expect 50-70% are now vaccinated.

Safety protocols such as limited numbers of groups at tour sites, wine sites are still in place.

Update: 5/24/2021: The Valle de Guadalupe restaurants and hotels have fully reopened with new restrictions. Facemasks, temperature checks, and hand gel the normal indoors, and most places now have indoor and outdoor seating for restaurants.

There continue to be no road travel restrictions entering Mexico or returning to the US at San Ysidro. Air travel returning to the US from Mexico requires a test.

In Ensenada, many (including our team) at Ensenada Massage - Valle Mobile Spa) are gaining access to the vaccine. Although behind the US in availability, it has happened.

There are still new covid cases and hospitals have adjusted to handle them. Most businesses

Beaches are filling up on the weekend. Many empty business offices in downtown Ensenada, so the economic impact remains evident. The cruise ships haven’t returned yet - maybe September? The main city beach, Playa Hermosa is partly closed for construction. However, everyone still accesses it from the sides that are not under construction. The biggest city park is under reconstruction/ closure as well. However, the harbor Malecon, huge flag area, and Riviera are all open with controlled entrances for temperature checks.

Please come visit us! In our Ensenada Spa, a facial package with our Mobile Spa Team, or a Personalized covid - safe wine tour with our Tours team.

Breathe Deeply and Travel Safe, Jesse A

I live and travel here, so ask me any safety or questions or updates you see. I’ll add them here.

Click Here to whatsapp Jesse 6461285160

I was on an epic 4-week road trip with my dogs in Baja Sur, so missed a few months of updates here.

Overall, Baja Sur seems a bit more consistent in its enforcement of masks and signs. However, since so much of life is outside, it didn’t seem to matter. Many people wear masks on the sidewalk.

The beaches were closed for Semana Santa but reopened when I returned three weeks later. On the ground, I noticed La Paz is still closing its Malecon in the evening. Flights in and out of Cabo to the US require a covid check before leaving. Other than masks indoors and temperature check and gel at the doors, I saw no reportable covid related restrictions in Mulege, Todos Santos, Los Barilles, Cabo Pulmo, San Ignacio, Loreto, or Bahia Asuncion.

The military and agriculture checkpoints don’t check health issues.

Update 2/24/2021

Despite newly announced land border controls entering into Mexico, I saw no difference in the border crossing northbound and again southbound the weeks of February 20.

Update: 1/31/2021:

Are there restrictions to entering Baja Mexico by Land?

Until this last week, there were no restrictions on driving southbound that I had heard announced or witnessed. Now there has been an announcement of new requirements, that may or may not be enforced: TalkBaja Source

• obligatory use of face masks temperature

• symptom screening

• maximum of two persons per vehicle

• verification that purpose of travel is considered essential See US Consulate

Yes, Ensenada and the Valle de Guadalupe are open for travel. There are no health checkpoints nor travel requirements for negative test results to enter the Valle de Guadalupe or Baja Norte if you are already in Mexico. Los Cabos now requires some testing for air travel. Official statistics reflect high rates of covid, and hospitals are full in Ensenada. Rates are lower than in Tijuana and near the border.

Keep in mind most of the cases are concentrated in Tijuana and Mexicali. Ensenada County has about 1/3 of the cases compared to Tijuana, so most of these cases would not be directly relevant to visitors to Valle de Guadalupe.

Baja seems to have a more relaxed attitude than I feel in San Diego on my visits north of the border. There is life in the streets and, although modified, people are working and living.

Despite the circumstances, restaurants and hotels have adapted. Tourism is open and there are Things to do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine and Food, and around Ensenada. Click for my recommendations. You can actually eat in a restaurant. The Baja and Valle de Guadalupe are welcoming travelers from Southern California with few other travel options, and Mexican national tourists from mainland Mexico.

Most spas are shut down in Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe, according to city requests. We are offering more mobile massage, a few massage appointments in our spa, and private tours for wine, horseback, and ATV.

According to a recent NPR article Title We Feel Safe, “Mexico has the fourth-highest death total from COVID-19 in the world and is experiencing a surge in infections and hospitalizations in the capital and its surrounding suburbs. Despite that and fast-rising case numbers in other countries like the United States, Mexico doesn't require travelers to show proof of a negative coronavirus test or to quarantine upon arrival.”

Official government news Facebook page here . BC Health Secretary with official Cases for Mexico here.

Baja Norte is in red light of the stoplight system.

Update: 12/10/2020: Despite red light, Still no travel restrictions entering by car. Restaurants are open with seating restrictions. Beer is now more available.

Beaches are open with 100’s of people using them each day.

Update 9/4/2020: Beaches are open in practice. I have been able to surf and swim this week without being asked to leave. At least fifty people walk and exercise every morning on Playa Hermosa.

No health checkpoints are in place. Restaurants and hotels have that survived have reopened with new procedures, including the rigorous Clean and Safe Certification that our spa follows and is used here, in Valle de Guadalupe and Ensenada by the tourism board.

The streets are quite busy on the weekends. I haven’t heard of large improvements or worsening in health statistics, which I don’t think are reliable given all the uncertainty of covid and the institutions here.

Update 8/6: Are the beaches in Ensenada Open? Yes, the beaches in Ensenada are now open! See my beach recommendations details here.

The Valle de Guadalupe is now open as well, I would say 1/2 open. The roads are open, and restaurants and hotels are accepting clients. All have made investments and changes for COVID, making your visit as safe as possible. Many things are still closed, so activities are a bit limited. I am developing my list of recommended activities in Valle de Guadalupe and around Ensenada here for what is open, and activities beyond wine and food, and mobile massage.

Update 8/1: Beaches are now open until 9am. This applies mostly to city beaches. Private and beaches out of town are open or differ on a case by case basis.

Update 7/20: Entering Mexico at San Ysidro is still no problem. Returning to US is no problem for citizens.

Entering Ensenada, there is no longer a health check to stop tourists and check the temperature or ask for a justification for your visit. Several micro-breweries reopened last week. About half the restaurants are open, mostly with outdoor seating. There is normal activity in the streets as locals are living daily life. Everyone is required to wear a mask in buildings, although this seems to me only enforced for the workers and depends on the place.

Businesses like my spa have adopted necessary safety measures and are offering modified service - outdoor seating for restaurants, sending food and massage to your door, and modifying indoor activities to make it as safe as possible. Many hotels and our spa have Clean and Safe certification and have invested in equipment and training to reopen.

Check official links for data on reported cases, below.

City beaches are still closed with lifeguards patrolling 8 am-7:30 pm. Check out my list of Best Ensenada beaches and access points.

Occasionally the cops drive down a busy road and use a megaphone to announce that the beach or park is closed.

The Valle de Guadalupe is partly open with select places opening. See here my updated activities of things to do in Valle de Guadalupe,

Update 7/10: The health stop or ‘Filtro’ entering Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe is reimposed on 7/4.

Update 7/2/2020: Beaches are still closed. City beaches are monitored by lifeguards 8am to 7:30pm, and you will be asked to leave. Locals walk their dogs and exercise, and surf before 8am or after 7:30pm. As alternative, go to a beach further from city center, such as near Bufadora.

Update 6/20/2020: The health checkpoint in Sauzal is now allowing anyone without a high temperature to pass to Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe. Previously documents or a good verbal argument were required to justify your entry. Now, as long as you pass the temperature radar gun test, you are welcome. Actually, they waived me through last week without temperature check or conversation, so enforcement is spotty.

Road travel is now open and there is no risk of being turned back!

Crossing the border into Mexico is unchanged. Crossing back into the US has not been a problem for me, a US citizen with Sentri pass. Despite what’s in the news, I have not heard of any US citizen having trouble crossing back into the US.

Reserve now with 10% discount, and reschedule easily online as your travel plans change. Use code TRAVELSAFE for discount. We are offering select appointments in the studio and open-air massage through our mobile service Valle Mobile Massage. The science points to stagnant air as a main risk factor, so we have maximized airflow in addition to many other changes to ensure your safety and ours.

Official data can be found here for Baja COVID cases. However, official data are highly suspect.

Update 6/1/2020

As of June 1, many restrictions were supposedly lifted across Mexico, including the health checkpoint entering the city. I have not seen this confirmed yet on the ground.

Baja California remains with the same recommendations for social distancing. A few restaurants with outdoor seating are open. Beaches still closed. Non-essential mostly still closed. Other parts of Mexico are a yellow or green light on the government categorization, Baja California remains a red light.

I have yet to meet anyone locally who was officially diagnosed with COVID or serious COVID symptoms. Local government also recognizes that many were ill with similar flu in February and speculate Ensenada may have some kind of resistance at this point.

Personally, I was ill for 5 days in February, with one night of fever, and sensitive throat lymph glands. Well before any cruise ships stopped coming or lockdown. I recovered on my own without hospitalization or diagnosis (tests were not available).

During May, there is a health checkpoint coming into Ensenada and each car is checked for temperature and asked their business. Some tourists have been turned away and residents are asked for a residential bill such as water/electricity to demonstrate they live here. I haven’t heard of residents being turned away for not having the document.

Waits are between 10-120 minutes for the checkpoint. There is no way to avoid it in the last few weeks of May.

As of 4/16 there are only 5 confirmed cases in Ensenada. Official data here.

Mexicali and Tijuana have more than 500 confirmed cases and seems to be quite bad. Unlikely that these exact numbers are accurate, but clearly it is on the rise at the border and arriving in Ensenada. The border is closed to non-essential travel to non-US citizens. In practice, it’s not clear what that means for US citizens.

Driving into Ensenada, there were medical checkpoints as of 3/28.

Curfew was imposed 2/29, but I am not sure how that will be enforced.

Although there are a few cars on the street, social distancing, masks, are the norm. I would say about 70% of businesses are closed or substanially reduced.

3/29

Daily life in Ensenada seems to be life as normal, but slower.  Eventually, Coronavirus (Covid-19) will arrive and disrupt the medical system as well as other factors of life here. The situation is changing daily with respect to travel restrictions. 

Please take care of the science-backed ideas to reduce infection rates, and fortify your immune system to handle any infection. 

We believe in the power of science for health, and embrace a holistic biopsychosocial model of wellness that incorporates the thought process and sees wellness as more than solely mechanical or chemical.  The mental stress of the situation is an important part of your wellness.  

Finding relaxation, social support, and fun are helpful for sense of well being,

How safe is Ensenada, Mexico?

updated March 13 2020

Wondering if travel to Ensenada is safe? It’s a common question from travelers Airbnb couples, and visitors to Valle de Guadalupe.  There are no official travel warnings or restrictions from US State Department for Ensenada, only other parts of Mexico, 1,400 miles away.

Please don’t avoid Ensenada due to bad news in Michoacan. That would be like saying, I won’t go to Vegas because of riots in Detroit . . . .

Unofficially, as an ex-pat spa owner here for 9 years, this is my two pesos worth of advice:  For the traveler, Ensenada is safe.

There has been a rash of violent killings in Ensenada and Tijuana in the last three months, primarily in night and mostly away from the city center. The city center remains very safe, with some risks in the ungated communities further from the city center. This change does not affect daytime tourism or wine valley tourism. As an ex-pat male, I never feel my body is unsafe here. Since it is a city, leaving things out is an invitation for theft.

Officially, recent US Department Warning Here does not mention Baja in ‘Reconsider Trave'l’, only in ‘Increased Caution’.

“There are no additional restrictions on travel for U.S. government employees in Baja California, which includes tourist areas in: Ensenada, Rosarito, and Tijuana”

More Broadly, if you are looking for evidence of why Mexico as a country is safe, consider that foreign residents are not leaving Ensenada nor Mexico overall, and record numbers of tourists arrive each year.

The color of the circles corresponds to the homicide rate. Ensenada VERY low.

Tourism is an important industry here in Ensenada, so local police keep a close eye on downtown Ensenada, La Primera, Malecon for security and food safety as well. You will see a 24/7 security guy roaming the Malecon (mostly telling me not to ride my bike) and a cop car parked in front of Parque de Tres Cabezas. Also, the local police force is using drones for emergency crime response and has decreased crime 10%.

You can see in this updated map, the homicide crime rate in Ensenada is lowest in Baja.

Your body is safe in Ensenada.  Ensenada crime rates are lower than Tijuana, and Los Angeles.  Nobody will mug or kidnap you, or something horrible such as steal a kidney.  My Dad worried about his since the violence and kidnapping news filtered through to him 15 years ago. Baja today is much much different. These things are very, very rare around Ensenada, and do not affect travelers when they do occur. Locals feel safe generally as well and the wealthy I have observed do not travel with bodyguards. Keep in mind, historically Ensenada has been considered a safe haven for the crime cartels and other shadow businesses.  Any cartel violence was not enforced here. This infographic on crime shows Ensenada with very few reported murders.

You can see while there is serious violence in Mexico, this is a geographically huge country just like the US, and the dirty business in Sinaloa is so far away does not affect Baja.

Your property is pretty safe in Ensenada

Generally I don’t hear stories of purse snatching, phone grabbing, or carjacking.  Ensenada is a city, so property disappears if you leave it unattended and in open. This is mostly relevant for living here. You can see visitor report feeling safe. This survey reports low to moderate perceptions of crime and high levels of safety.

Avoid Travel Stress: Book Private Tour

Valle de Guadalupe Safety

I am in the Wine Valley often for mobile massage, and see the biggest troubles there are road conditions and theft. In the rainy season, unpaved roads have huge puddles and ruts. Don’t get stuck and ruin a great weekend. Low rise vehicles are not so great. Having said that, the main roads in Valle are paved.

Theft is mostly an issue for those that live there since it is so spacious, and empty during week/off season. You might notice dogs everywhere. Dogs are often used as a security device, doing their job to bark . . . .

Safe Travel for Ensenada: Exercise same caution any city in the US:  

• Don’t leave bags unlocked or sitting around.

• Lock your bike up, valuable car or off road vehicle; the more valuable the stuff, the bigger the target.

• Understand that late night drinking leaves you vulnerable

• Feel free to ignore random people that talk to you, mostly to sell you stuff . . .

• Bigger bills are hard to make change often. Not a security threat, but an inconvenience.

• Prepare Girl scout: Check if you will have cell coverage, have insurance coverage, any emergency info you might need. Save walking map down below here:

It doesn’t have to be this complicated, but if you want to think broadly to make it smooth trip . . .

Within walking distance of the curiseport and downtown area is cleaner and well guarded.  The Malecon has security 24/7 (no bikes or homeless or soliciting), the police station is 1 block off La Primera, and regular patrols.  As you get away from La Primera in Ensenada Centro, it does get dustier and more full of potholes, (especially compared to SoCal Catalina Island for you Carnival cruisers).  We don’t have street sweeper machines and for the potholes. . . local government what can you say? Please know that this is just daily life for us. Mostly people working, buying shoes, taking kids to school, going to the dentist, working to pay rent.

Biggest Travel Risk

• As a traveler or tourist, the biggest risk is a crummy travel experience,

• substandard lodging when you go for something cheap,

• uncomforatable vendors price negotiations on La Primera street,

• long driving hours and stress,

• transportation stress of bad roads and being left by Uber.

Ensenada has huge potholes and Uber doesn’t arrive to many places. So don’t get stranded at blowhole or wine valley or las canadas. I suggest booking a private driver tour like Arturo at Ensenada Excursions and Tours.

Border wait times are a huge variable. Unless you have Sentri or Medical pass, the crossing back into the US may be the worst part of your Ensenada weekend.

Crossing into mexico is also backed up on many Friday afternoons.

Security Check points pop up randomly on major toll road. Be aware. There are at least two types of checkpoints. Army guys in fatigues are clearly military and really only interested in guns and drugs. Don’t mess with them. I have had a yerba matte tea spoon confiscated since they didn’t know what it was for. The federales have dark blue/black uniforms and cars. It seems they are primarily looking for drunk driving. Local patrullas in Ensenada are relaxed and not sticklers for minor traffic infractions. I haven’t heard many bad tourist stories from patrullas here in Ensenada, but lots in Tijuana and Rosarito where there is more of a party scene.

On the toll road, keep your toll ticket. Part of paying toll is free service towing (to the next toll booth) and insurance to cover accidents. These ‘Green Angels’ have white and green vehicles. Phone number on back of toll ticket.

Check out:

Things to Do in Ensenada

Things to Do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine and Food

Best Tacos Near Downtown

Get a Massage and Give a hug!

Jesse is full time resident of Ensenada since 2011 and Baja since 2009. He hangs out with Tina and Lola, does massage with Ensenada Massage and Valle Mobile Massage Teams. He hopes his blogging helps travelers enjoy Ensenada, the gem of the Pacific. Bio here.